Presa El Gasco

Looking at vultures

 There is a strange artifact of history that is now a pleasant park and a fantastic walk. The El Gasco Dam is a failed dam constructed in the late 18th century. It was intended to be a grandiose engineering project leading to canals connecting Madrid and the Atlantic Ocean. At the time it was to be the tallest dam ever constructed but after being plagued by delays and setbacks, an early failure led to the project being abandoned. The steep walls of the dam are still visible and you can walk freely on top the very steep walls. It's a cool experience and the views over the valley are fantastic. I highly recommend visiting its Wikipedia page to learn more about its strange history.

There are a couple of trails in the area that wind through the hills or along the incomplete canal. There is a much longer loop that goes through a classic Mediterranean tree and shrub habitat. There are some beautiful views across Madrid and nice assortment of trails winding in and out of the rocks. 

We were lucky to see a group of Griffon and Black Vultures scavenging a Wild Boar carcass by the river. There were probably thirty to forty of them and we saw several go to perch in the sun across the valley while others fought it out for a piece of the boar. I was surprised at how open the area was, there were no fences or installations of any kind. The area was popular with dog walkers and I understand why with such an enjoyable walk near to several smaller suburbs. 

Views from above

Nice wooded area by the canals

Cocido

 

The ultimate winter dish, cocido is a very meat centric stew. This is a common winter dish in most parts of Spain bar the hotter south, and although the core ingredients remain the same, regional variety is exhibited especially with the meats.

The dish starts with a noodle soup in a rich stock. It can either be combined with garbanzos or have the garbanzos served separately. In this case we had them separately which I quite liked due to the even richer sauce the garbanzos were presented with. After this is a dish of meats all of which were perfectly cooked and presented. The regional touch were the "bollas", delicious little fritter like composites from the stews and stock of the different meats. 

We were lucky enough to get this cocido at a local restaurant as part of their daily menu, an extreme bargain that had the usually calm restaurant overflowing with anyone from a 15km radius. Turnover was quick and efficient as the business tried to maximize flows and make their August on cocido day. With a dessert included it was 15 Euros per person, fantastic value especially in the calorie to cost ratio!

To say cocido is a rich meal is an understatement but if you're looking for a heart meal to warm you up, this might be one of the ultimate choices.

Roasted chestnuts (Castañas asadas)

Compact booth

One of my absolute favorite winter features of Madrid are the availability of roasted chestnuts (Castañas asadas). I had not been familiar with just how delicious these roasted nuts could be admittedly being more familiar with the word from the opening lines of the Nat King Cole Christmas classic, "The Christmas Song". The presence of their temporary booths, not present in summer, are a sure sign of winter and the warm nuts offer respite from the cold. They are sold in three different sizes and the bags even come with an extra side bag for the shell of the nuts!

Shout out to the Instagram user vive_majadahonda for the short feature video!

Dual pocket bag for shells.

Bike rides along the coast

End of the road beach in Torrenostra

 

One of the staples of our trips to Alcossebre are morning bike rides. I am a huge fan of cycling and the setting in Alcossebre is beautiful with normal rides following the coast. The most common route we take is to the neighboring town of Torrenostra just south of us. It is about an 8km ride one way and makes for a perfect route along the coast with the final point being the literal end of the road in Torrenostra at a small park on the beach. We usually get off the bike and stretch a little bit overlooking the ocean. There is a small park nearby with drinking fountains meaning we do not have to take water bottles along.

There is usually a nice breeze coming off the ocean and it is in view for nearly the entire ride. If you get out early enough (before 9am) the road will be deserted with only a handful of walkers and cyclists getting in their morning exercise. Cars are also scarce which allows for a real casual and safe ride. I can't imagine a better environment for morning exercise though it's a shame the road doesn't extend a little further along the coast.

Parc Natural de la Serra d'Irta: El Faro hasta Playa de Cala Argilaga (Trip II)

 

I've written about this park before and it remains a summer staple. We enjoyed a beautiful walk along the coast and checked out some little hidden stoney beaches. It's particularly beautiful in the late evening with the light fading as it sets over the hills but it is also a fantastic area for a picnic. Although you can not drive to most of the beaches you can park the car and take a short hike to set up in a relatively secluded beaches, especially when compared to the hectic nature of most of the public beaches in Alcossebre.

Doorway curtains (Cortina de tiras)

 

A variety of curtains

In addition to the unique persianas, another ubiquitous and unique household furnishing are doorway curtains (Cortina de tiras). I had never seen these before coming to Spain and initially thought they were cumbersome and uncomfortable but I now enjoy their utility, especially for keeping flies out of houses. 

Whether it is the door to the outside or interior partitioning, the doorway curtains hang from the top of the doorway and cover the entire doorway. They are typically made up of strands of metal or plastic and come in all sorts of colors and designs. 

When passing through the doorway you can kind of brush them aside like a normal curtain but when passing with items in your hands they can be a little unruly but after some practice you get used to it. As mentioned I initially thought they were unnecessary if not a little strange but in the end I am a huge fan.

Basketball

 

Awesome court by the beach

Although Spain is more well known for futbol (soccer), basketball is a growing sport. I'm much more comfortable on the basketball court than the football pitch and thus I enjoy pick up games whenever I get the chance. 

As true to the sporting stereotypes, I find the Spanish players are either solid with great fundamentals and a non-flashy game or they are very inexperienced and lack formal training. Either way it makes for a fun environment, especially since I am past my athletic prime. 

Local court

At the beach there is a local court that inconveniently hosts futbol games as well. It's a little cramped as the games run perpendicular to each other (see above photo) but it's surprisingly smooth and interference is not so bad. I get hit with a futbol once in a while and we hold up action if the futbol game is passing through but otherwise it's a normal game. There is a nice group of regulars that come and we're able to play 2 on 2 or 3 on 3 and the skill level is usually good enough to be enjoyable while not being too serious. 

I've had similar experiences in Madrid though I have not sought out any serious courts rather I've only played in the local parks. I encourage anyone that plays even a little bit to not be afraid to go out and enjoy some recreational basketball.

Window shutters (persianas)

 

A pretty standard persiana

You may think the title of this post is incredibly boring but I can assure you that window shutters (persianas) are a very cultural relevant item in Spain. It is a unique feature to Spanish home decor that is standard for all homes yet I have never seen them outside of Spain. Sure there are homes that have curtains and even shutters but the standardization and permanence of the parsianas in Spain are something to behold. 

While some have speculated this comes from traditional religious beliefs and lifestyle norms, I think it has endured due to the schedule of Spainards. How do you sleep in until 9am if you are bombarded by daylight? It certainly helps the, "stay up late and sleep late" lifestyle that so many people here embrace. 

They have grown on me for their ease of use, reliability and practicality. The way they are embedded in the house make them much less fussy than curtains.

The method of opening and closing is pulling this strap like cord

San José Caves (Coves de Sant Josep/Cuevas de San José)

 

Nice vibes in the boat.

 

I'm always eager to go on an excursion while at the beach and this year we discovered a relatively well-known tourist attraction that we had not been to. It is located about an hour away so an easy half day trip for us.

San José Caves (Coves de Sant Josep/Cuevas de San José) is a cave with a river inside and although at first glance I was worried it might be too touristy but after the visit I felt it was a fantastic activity that anyone coming to the area should do!

The caves are very well designed for tourism activities with a 45 minutes boat ride and a short 10 minute walk within the caves. The cave has several boats that maximize the loads of tourists (especially in August) while still avoiding overcrowding. We had to book in advance online, something which I was told is relatively new due to the popularity of the activity. The activity is extremely family friendly and also suitable for people of all ages.

Bomba Rice

 

One of the most well known dishes in Spain is paella but what is lesser known is the specific variety of rice that makes this dish possible. The variety of rice is called bomba, commonly referred to as Valencia Rice (named for the region in Spain where it most commonly grown). This rice is known for its non-stick properties and is also able to absorb two to three times its volume of water without spoiling. These two properties make it perfect for paella; long duration of cooking paired with absorption of all the delicious spices and flavors in paella. The name of the rice, "bomba", gets its name from the Spanish word “bombeo” which means “to pump”, which I interpret as a reference to pumping the rice full of fluid. 

The rice also has a slightly nutty taste which adds to the overall experience of paella as well. I've seen this rice used in soups but not many other dishes and I've also never seen a paella without this type of rice. The status of the rice is a critical part of the pallea experience. The rice can not be too hard nor too soft, rather the texture must be just right.

Manchego cheese

Manchego cheese is probably my favorite cheese in Spain and is specific to the area of La Mancha qualifying for the European Union Protected Designation of Origin (PDO). This means that to be classified as true "manchego cheese" it must come from that region, from the milk of a manchega sheep, and mature for at least 30 days. My favorite type is curado which means it has been aged for 3-6 months.

I am no cheese connoisseur and lack the vocabulary to accurately describe the tastes and textures but it's certainly a cheese that I find delicious on its own and not one that I would necessarily add to a sandwich. The flavor is more complex than your average cheese and pairing it with a red wine is a dangerous combination!

Gumiel de Mercado

 

You can see the "castillo" with bodegas in the background of this pic

For me, a trip to Spain is not complete without a visit to my mother in-law's home village of Gumiel de Mercado (Trip IV). We trekked up to the view point and enjoyed a beautiful clear day. In the evening I poked around the castillo in the center of town. A small hill that has been hollowed out with small scale wineries (bodegas) it has recently received some renovation to make it more tourist friendly. It's a stunning area with views of  the landscape and unique little chimney's aerating the cellars below.

Fresh grass of spring

Beautiful light

Mountain hikes: Miraflores de la Sierra

 

A view into the mountains

 

One of the things Madrileños tend to do is escape to the mountains. The city is surrounded by mountains most notably the Sierra de Guadarrama, Sierra del Norte and the Sierra de Gredos. There are loads of small mountain towns peppered throughout the mountains and their surroundings are perfect places for long walks. There are still many people that herd animals and thus there are a variety of trails to wander on. The backdrop of both the mountains and views into the plains below are stunning. 

I always enjoy visiting friends in the mountains and it is only natural to go on a walk. This year the spring time weather was particularly inviting and thus a perfect excuse to get out. Although there are natural parks and protected areas around (such as La Pedra) what is so nice about these villages is that you can literally step out the back door and find a suitable area to enjoy.

Fallow field

Segovia town

 

Segovia Cathedral towers over the cafes.

Although the aqueducts of Segovia are the most well known attraction, Segovia is a charming little town with some stunning buildings most notably the Segovia Cathedral and Alcazar. The Alcazar is particularly stunning located on the edge of the city overlooking a cliff. There is a deep moat and a beautifully landscaped area in front of the grounds. It's has a distinctive and romantic shape and style paired with the location on a rocky crag make it a prototypical medieval scene (in my unscholary opinion.)

It's not a tiny town like Morella but had a similar feel with the main pedestrian rohad connecting the aqueducts to the cathedral being packed with touristy shops. It was a holiday weekend when we visited and it was very crowded though enjoyable due to the nice weather. The city is a great place to spend the day and a must do day trip from Madrid.

 Alcazar of Segovia

A view of the city from Alcazar

Cochinillo asado (roast suckling pig)

 

One of the things I enjoy about Spain are local food specialties. Some are more well known like paella from Valencia or tripe in Madrid(callos a la Madrileña) but others are much less known. In Burgos we had the local specialty cordero lechal (roasted baby lamb) which was delicious but I am slightly squeamish at the whole baby animal thing. Well, in Segovia the specialty is cochinillo asado (roast suckling pig) which cranks up a notch even further. 

The restaurant was called Venta Vieja and it is a charming old place that feels like it has existed for millennia. The building is old with a massive open floor space and huge wooden ceiling beams and bare brickwork. Sure enough, according to the website:

It is located in the same place where there was an old inn, called Santa Lucía, on the road from Segovia to San Rafael and at the foot of the Sierra de La Mujer Dead, because of the way her silhouette recalls.

The restaurant takes its food seriously which is apparent from the moment you step in. There is a photo collage of various pig slaughterings and barbecues! The food itself was delicious and all of the tables around us ordered the cochinillo asado indicative of the restaurants prowess in preparing the local specialty.

Real Fábrica de Cristales de La Granja

Blowing the glass to expand it.

Real Fábrica de Cristales de La Granja is a really interesting glass museum, gallery, and factory. If you have even the slightest interest in glass making, the history of glass production, or appreciate glass art, then you should absolutely make a visit. 

The main reason I went was to see a glass blowing demonstration. They have a constant production of vases and the steady stream of tourists can come and observe. It was a really neat process of him heating up the glass, blowing, shaping, using a machine to form, cutting the top, and then putting in a gigantic oven-like object presumably for finishing. It was really well presented and the guys were really friendly and happily fielded questions from the tourists. 

I was unexpectedly engaged with the history of glass blowing production in the area and technologically. There were several replicas and originals of glass blowing equipment with some seriously impressive engineering. There was even a guided tour but we could not participate in the entire tour due to time. 

After the museum there is a gift shop and small gallery full of impressive works. The Real Fábrica de Cristales de La Granja was a real pleasant surprise, a kind of hidden gem for sure!

An old press for making glass sheets.

Acueducto de Segovia

 

Segovia is most famous for the 2000 year old Roman aqueduct that runs straight through the town. It dramatically bisects the city center creating a stunning backdrop for the bustling plaza. We climbed the stairs on one end of the aqueduct and got a stunning view overlooking the city. The attractions carried on highlighting the presence of the underground aqueduct but we did not follow that circuit. We instead wandered around the main aqueduct with the throng of tourists posing for selfies, relaxing in the shade, or taking a drink at one of the many surrounding cafes.  

It's quite amazing that the aqueduct was used until the 18th century to carry water. The engineering is phenomenal and I recommend watching this video if you're interested in learning more.

Riofrío Royal Palace - Palacio Real de Riofrío

The view of the surrounding area.

The Riofrío Royal Palace - Palacio Real de Riofrío was a little underwhelming though we did not actually enter the palace. It's known as the "little brother" of La Granja and it's well worth visiting if you are in the area. There are a few walking trails and a nice open and partially wooded area next to the palace. It's a great place to have a picnic and stretch your legs. We were also attracted to the grounds due to the possibility of seeing Roe Deer (corzo [Capreolus capreolus]) and European fallow deer (gamo [Dama dama]). We did manage to see some Roe Deer on our way out and apparently it's not uncommon to see them rather close around the actual palace.

We took a short walk around the grounds and it was a good stop over for us during our Segovia day tour.

The actual palace.

Palacio Real de La Granja de San Ildefonso - La Granja

A view towards the mountains

Palacio Real de La Granja de San Ildefonso, or more commonly and much less pretentiously known as, La Granja, is a huge park in the mountains north of Madrid. As the name suggests it was formerly a royal palace and hunting ground but is now open to the public. 

The springtime weather was perfect for a trip up to the mountains from Madrid. It was a sunny day with clear and chilly air. The main palace is an impressive building with classic manicured gardens, ostentatious fountains (apparently they only put them on a few times a year) and an assortment of centaur statues. The property is massive and eventually the landscape gradually becomes more wild. There is a reservoir stocked with fish and a massive forest that was traditionally used for hunting. 

I really enjoyed the different parts of the "garden" though it is really more like a park. The oak forest was a particular highlight for me. Also to note, I did not visit the inside of the palace due to time constraints. 

Crystal clear mountain spring water

Beautiful oak forest