Montanejos: Swimming

I was spending a few weeks at the coast in Alcossebre and during that time I took a short day trip to the nearby mountain village of Montanejos. Montanejos is known for it's nearby springs, crystal clear swimming holes, and mineral water. There are numerous spas and although the village is probably only about 500 people, there are a large amount of tourists and tourist attractions.

The most famous attraction is probably the river flowing the town. There is a pedestrian walkway for about a kilometer (1/2 mile) that is littered with people having picnics, swimming, and relaxing. Although there is a larger swimming area at the far point of the river, there are no shortages of uncrowded swimming spots. There is also a fuente (water fountain), which is very typical in Spain, but this one contains unique and healthy minerals. The water contains large amounts of sulfur compounds and has some type of magnetism in the river that creates a weak attraction among the rocks in the bed of the river. If you pick up a rock underwater you can feel it pulling back towards the other rocks. Very weird stuff.

My favorite part was swimming through the gorge in the photo above. The river winds through steep rock walls with warm springs intermittently trickling in, some forming waterfalls down the sides. You can't climb out until you reach the end and it gets quite deep for a ways before it gets shallow.

Apparently this place gets pretty busy in August (the holiday month of Spain) and is a hot spot in the winter for an older crowd. All in all, an excellent visit to a beautiful river!

Barcelona: Music - Open jam at Jazz Si

I’m a great lover of music, especially when I return from living abroad. Listening to live music is one of my favorite things to do and I’m lucky to have come from a place (Milwaukee, Wisconsin) with a decent music scene. I was excited to be in Barcelona, though the only place that seemed to be offering live music on a Tuesday night was Jazz Si. For €4 (about $5.25)  they were having a, “rock and blues jam session”. The music was said to be from 7:45-10PM, which I thought was pretty early in Spain. Apparently Barcelona has recently passed noise ordinance laws that make live music difficult to have late in the evening.

Finding the venue was a bit difficult but I was a little late so I could hear the music while approaching. When I paid for my entry I was pleased to see it came with a drink, so I ordered a beer. The place was pretty full with a few tables in the back and chair style seating in front of the stage. I took a seat in the back and took in the scene.

The house band was a drummer, bassist, keyboard player and guitarist. They were tight, well practiced, and fed off the crowd well. The venue had a second floor balcony, which quickly filled up and people even sat on the ground on the balcony with their legs dangling off the side.

Most of the musicians who came appeared to be frequent attendees. They usually had practiced arrangements with the house band guys. However, there was a lot of variety and spontaneity in the night from a Spanish guitar folk singer to a heavy metal ensemble.

The only awkward moment of the night came when some guy came up to do “beat boxing”. I’ve seen somepretty sweet beatboxing so I wasn’t about to write this guy off, even though the title of the act seemed out of place and ill timed amid the set of rock standards. The guy got up and did a beat with no variation while the bass, guitar and keyboard player played a funky, yet repetitive line. Eventually the band came to several vamp endings, though the beatboxer was oblivious. Finally the guitar player gave the “hook” signal and the guy stopped. I found it all amusing and even though the beatboxing was less than stellar, the guy was really into it and he looked stereotypically European with a designer haircut and fashionable clothes.

There was a blues guitar player, who was obviously a professional. He played off the crowd and the crowd loved it. In between his songs he said that he toured a lot in America and Canada and people were always asking him about Spain and the economy and he would say it’s not so bad. He then said that people should thank the Jazz Si owner because he is one of the only merchants in Barcelona supporting live music.

The night then culminated with a group of metalheads taking the stage to give a Broadway worthy version of Steppenwolf’s classic, “Born to Wild”. The metal guys were nearly as out of place as the beatboxer but that did not stop them from rocking out with all the classic metal theatrics including head banging, hip gyration, tongue wagging, and all the tricks. It was certainly a great group to end with and the club won me over for it’s nightly music, upbeat crowd, and schedule. I enjoyed the music ending at 10PM, though it was a bit early, it’s then the perfect time to have dinner in Spain!

I was so impressed with Jazz Si that I returned the next night for jazz night. The music was even better and I was pleased to see they had gotten an upright piano for the gig. The crowd was much smaller, though it was a Wednesday night. There were several musicians that showed up throughout the night, including two excellent alto Sax players, an amazing vocalist, a trombone player and a tenor sax player. Whenever I am in Barcelona, I will certainly always be going to Jazz Si!

Barcelona: Restaurant - La Nena

After a wonderfully amazing morning at Park Guelle, it was time to get some lunch. Walking through the barrio (neighborhood) of Gracia, and we spotted some people eating open faced sandwiches. The place piqued our interest although we were looking for a different restaurant, we eventually came back to Le Nena to try their food.

The restaurant was quite small, though typical in size to most restaurants and bars in Spain. There were a lot of portraits of what appeared to be someone’s family. There was a shelf that ran throughout the entire seating area and a variety of board games were placed on them. Though no one was playing any games at the time, I assume that they were fair game. The restaurant wasn’t crowded but it was busy with groups of friends, lunch time regulars, and a woman painting at one of the tables.

What I really loved about this restaurant was that they had a piano in the corner of the place. I asked the woman running the place if it was a decoration and she said no, then asked if I could play. When I responded yes, she said, “Well, I’ll turn down the music then”. The place was previously playing some Buddie Holiday, which was turned down as I sat down. I hadn’t played piano in over six months, so I welcomed the opportunity to play some songs.

Le Nena was a great little restaurant with excellent food and a neighborly vibe. Because Barcelona is such a touristy city, it can be difficult to find unpretentious and non-touristy restaurants. However, just like Le Nena, I’m sure they exist in great number, tucked in the various barrios (neighborhoods) of Barcelona.  

Madrid: The movies- Cine Doré

Tucked into the barrio (neighborhood) of La Latina in Madrid is the beautiful movie theater, Cine Doré (c/ Santa Isabel, 3). This ciné is owned by the national film archive organization, Filmoteca Espanola, which allows it to have a wealth and unmatched depth of films available for display. There are a few of these state operated theaters in Spain and being a national program, the price per ticket is only €2.50. 

View from the outside

Cine Doré has one screen and shows four movies every day but Monday (closed). Films vary from classic movies to contemporary new releases and are not limited to Spanish or American cinema. Films from all over the world are shown and every month they have two or three themes. This last month they featured Tim Burton, 36 directors from Japan, Erland Josephson, and others. Another great thing is that movies are always shown in their original language with Spanish subtitles. This is rare among Spanish media; typically all shows and movies in large theaters are shown with Spanish overdubs. When checking listings for small theaters, it will say “VOSE” (version original sutitulara en espanol) if it’s without overdubs.

The movie theater is beautiful, having been converted from an old theater it has adequate seating and a second floor balcony. The segmented individual seating on the sides of the balcony remain in place, a relic of the times past. The ceiling has an ornate design painted in bright colors and it still feels more like a play theater than a movie theater. Outside of the seating area there is a large café serving food and drinks. It’s a popular spot for hanging out and certainly a hot spot for discussing cinema.

View from the balcony.

Filmoteca Espanola is my favorite theater in Spain, not just for its charming design and warm vibe, but for the culture it provides cinema fans in Madrid. Because of Filmoteca Espanola’s access to older movies, there are some films shown that I doubt are shown anywhere else in the world. Early 20^th century silent Spanish civil war themed movies, 70’s dramas from Mongolia, and other rarities are shown regularly at Cine Doré. Apparently when my friend went to see a silent movie, the audience didn’t know what to expect and the situation eventually digressed into everyone failing in attempting to hold in their giggles directed at a patron who had fallen asleep and who had begun snoring loudly. Such is the scene at Cine Doré; fans of all types of cinema come to get a sampling of Filmoteca Espanol’s huge archive.

Majadahonda: The coffee shop- Bookstore/Gallery/Cafe

I'm a huge lover of coffee and most certainly local coffee shops. Coffee is typically something I miss when I'm living in the developing world, though many countries I've lived in have produced coffee (ex. Jamaica, Uganda), though it hasn't been popular for domestic consumption, or the  price has been driven up by rich developed countries.  And even if coffee is available, finding a coffee shop with character can be near impossible.

One of my favorite coffee shops is found in the suburb of Majadahonda, about 16km (10 miles) from the heart of Madrid. The coffee shop is located on the "Gran Via" of Majadahonda. "Gran via" is a term used for the main pedestrian walkways in cities in Spain. Apparently pretty much ever city will have a “gran via” and a “plaza mayor”.

The coffee shop is located on a corner with some outside seating available in the summer. The coffee shop also serves a second hand bookstore with shelves of books lining the walls. There is a second floor catwalk that contains a few small tables and more books. The store was originally started by a biologist and previously only served as a bookshop. Then her daughter took over the bookshop and realized she couldn’t survive off it, so she added a small bar. The bar continues to be more of a bookshop than bar, though many “regulars” come in for a drink, usually a cana, glass of wine, or coffee.

Scattered throughout the books are paintings and drawings. The daughter currently runs the bookstore and paints in her down time in the coffee shop. An eclectic mix of music is always playing; from soul and R&B to Andalucian flamenco, the selection of music is perfect.

The coffee shop gives a great vibe. It's a small place and initially seems cramped and cluttered but after some time it becomes homey and cozy. It's never too busy to feel overcrowded and the patrons are a mix of young and old, the majority of them regulars. I also like that it sticks out in the posh landscape of Majadahonda's Gran Via. Tucked among boutiques and chic restaurants there is a laid back second hand book store/coffee shop/gallery.

Madrid: The concert group - Drums

I recently went to see one of my friends perform with his drum group. I didn’t know what to expect as my experience with concerts in Spain have been mixed. My friend, Jorge, had been with his drum group for two years and the group holds a concert twice a year.

We arrived at the venue, an unassuming street in the neighborhood of Avenida de America in Madrid. What I assumed were a mix of performers and concert goers spilled into the streets. The concert began at 10PM and at 9PM there was a futbol game involving the Spanish national team and Italy, resulting in a massive crowd at every bar on the street. Many of the performers had taken their drums outside the bar and were enjoying impromptu jam sessions. There were maybe 100 people on the street and the vibe was absolutely summertime.

When we entered the venue (Le Nueva Dicha) I was surprised; it was more of a club/bar than a community center that I was expecting. I soon found out the concert was organized by two teachers that had several groups that would perform. The drums ranged from the cajon, to the djembe, to more exotic African drums. There were probably 80+ students divided in 10 groups, with each group performing about two songs. Most of the students were young but many were also in their 30s and 40s.

The concert was great with quick transitions between groups, and a great vibe from the audience. You could tell that many of the students were nervous, some unprepared, and others overwhelmed. Still, all of the groups sounded decent enough and there were no trainwrecks. The instructor sat in the middle and was mic’d, which probably helped.

The instructors were great, especially the first one. She was a young woman that exuded the energy and support of a great teacher, especially a music teacher. She clapped the hardest for her groups and gave everyone smiles and hugs after their performance. I thought a lot about how a lot of people think music is so difficult to learn if you haven’t learned it as a child. Learning the drums to the point of performing must have been nerve wrecking and difficult for many of the people but a great teacher can make all the difference. I was happy to see such a well attended event for amateur music groups.

The coolest moment came between sets when a “special guest’ was invited to play aninstrument called the “hang”. The “hang” is apparently from Switzerland and takes years to fill a special order request. The instrument was mesmerizing and the crowd was respectful and equally under the trance of the hang. I suggest you watching a short clip. The hang player had me in the palm of his hand as I felt like I was in some type of psychedelic dream.

The night ended at around 12AM, though I had to leave during the last performance. The bus I needed to catch was across town and I wanted to catch the 1AM bus or else I wasn’t sure when the next one would be. Overall, the concert was a success, and it further inspired my studies of the cajon!

Spain: Eating Times

One of the biggest cultural differences I’ve grown accustomed to is the late times for taking meals during the day. Eating and drinking are huge parts of Spanish culture and the way the day is designed around these two things reflects the casual and relaxed nature of people. It also reflects Spaniards affinity for food as there seem to be approximately five meals in a day..

Lunch time starts around 2:00pm, though I’ve sat down for lunch close to 4pm. Lunch here happens to be the largest meal of the day and can easily take two hours. Depending how early I’ve gotten up in the morning, sometimes waiting for lunch can be excruciating though it’s always well worth it once you start eating. Lunch is extremely relaxed and casual, often times segueing seamlessly into caña time and then back into dinner.

Dinner usually starts around 9pm and it’s not unusual for people to start at 11pm. Literally, 11pm at night. I mean, if I saw someone eating dinner at 11pm in the US, I'd tell the story to other friends about how I saw someone eating dinner at 11pm. Here it's quite the opposite, in fact, the other day I was out with a friend at 730pm and we saw a large family eating dinner. We both looked to see if they were tourists and when we both realized they were Spanish, we simultaneously turned to each other and said, "What are they doing!?!?".

Though dinner is usually quite light on the stomach, it’s still absurd and a little shocking to me how late we sit down to eat sometimes. However, when all the meals start late, it’s also typical to not be so hungry until later on in the evening, and a light meal is perfect before sleep. If you need something between lunch and dinner, you can have a “merienda”, which is basically a snack, or small meal, depending how hungry you are. 

It’s often one of the little notorious facts people know about Spain, “Oh, they eat dinner really late there, right?”, and it couldn’t be more true. Although I’ve gotten used to it, I can’t help but still being occasionally surprised at the lateness of eating. I even initially thought it was exaggerated but it becomes obvious immediately that the reputation of late eating is well earned.   

Spain: Tapas

Tapas are one of my favorite aspects of going out in Spain. In most parts of Spain, especially the south, a small ‘tapa’ (literally ‘lid’) is customarily provided with a beer or wine. That's right; free of charge, included with drinks, gratis...however you want to say it, it's usually free. The kind of tapa you’re presented with can vary from the lowest end of potato chips, peanuts and olives, to the higher end of baked potato, papas bravas, meatballs, and small pieces of bread with meat or cheese. With enough rounds of drinks, tapas can easily fill you up.

One of my favorite tapas (and Spanish foods), croquettas.

Classic tapa, Patatas Bravas (Fried potato with spicy sauce)

Random bread with sausage tapa.

I think that most Americans think that Spanish eat tapas for their meals, which I haven’t found to be true. Tapas are rarely ordered separately from drinks, rather they are inclusive of the drinks. However, there are some places, especially in trendy areas, that have a 'tapa menu'. It's much more common to order a 'ración' if you have a substantial appetite. University students will frequently combine their drinking and evening meal but it is not common place among other groups. I love the variation in tapas and I still receive tapas that I can’t believe are complimentary. The larger the group you have, and the more drinks you order, the more plentiful your tapas will be! Apparently in the south, the tapa distribution is the most liberal in Spain, though I still haven’t ventured to experience this haven.

Classic tapa: bread and jamon!

Another classic, the Spanish tortilla. I'm very happy when I get a tapa like this. 

Spain: Caña

I’m not a huge alcohol drinker but in Spain there is virtually no way to escape the occasional caña (literally ‘cane’). When going to a bar or restaurant, there is almost always a ‘house’ beer on tap. This beer served in a small glass is referred to as a “caña” and the most typical way to order a beer. It’s not common to ask what kind of beer you want, rather there is only a small variation in the type of cañas. You can also get a caña con limón (with lemon fanta) or clara (beer with gaseosa). I know that most bars have other beers available, but I’ve never been with a Spaniard who orders a beer and asks for anything other than a caña.

Like wine, cañas typically come with tapas. Cañas are also very small, usually 200-250ml. Coincidentally, they come in the same cup (vaso) that a morning café con leche would come in. The price for a caña is a bit expensive for the amount of beer but keep in mind that with every round will be another round of tapas! At most places a caña will be 1€, though they can reach 2€ in upscale locations. Also, in a bar, it is not commonplace to tip like in America, rather you can choose to leave small change (10-50 cent coins). Cañas are taken at nearly anytime of the day, but certainly very popular between lunch and dinner, at around 7pm. Caña time can frequently morph into dinner time, a common sight in Spain.  

Spain: The Coffee

The coffee in Spain took me some getting used to. I am a big coffee lover, though I prefer the American style mug of coffee than the cappuccino like potency of Spanish coffee. However, though I prefer the American style, it doesn't mean I can't appreciate the delicious and abundant Spanish coffee.

Most coffee made in home is through a coffee percolator, much stronger than the more common American drip style. If you're out for coffee, it's important to know the different types of coffee. The most common coffee in the morning is café con leche. It's basically an espresso shot with milk, which if it's a nice place, you should be able to choose the temperature of the milk (templado o caliente) and the amount of milk added. It’s also apparently more common to drink it from a small glass cup (vaso) in the mornings, while later cafés con leche are taken from a ceramic mug (taza). Most people add sugar as well. 

 Café con leche in a cup. 

Café con leche in a mug.

In the afternoon, most typically after a large (and late) lunch, it's common to get a café solo or café cortado. Café solo is simply a shot of coffee and cortado is a bit of coffee with a splash of milk. Most people will get a café solo unless the establishment has coffee of questionable quality. For example, there is a Chinese restaurant I like to go to and they always burn the coffee so I'll always get a cortado. You can also get a café manchado, which is much closer to a café con leche, basically a cup of hot milk with a splash of coffee.

Café cortado

Café solo

If you’re looking for something closer to home, you can order a café Americano. This is the typical coffee with about a cup of water added. I’m not sure if most run of the mill bars and cafes in Spain will be able to prepare it, but I’ve seen it on menus in larger towns.

One interesting thing is the sugar. Though I will add a bit of sugar to my cafés cortado, I don’t add sugar to my cafés con leche. Most Spanish will add sugar to their coffee and it will always be presented in an individual packet on the side. Even the most upscale places won’t have a communal sugar dispenser, which is typical in America  and for whatever reason, is somewhat frowned upon here.

Coffee can be a great way to start the day, end a meal, or relax anytime in between. Like most food and beverage in Spain, it is an extremely social activity for the Spanish, which the caffeine certainly helps with!